J.R. McMillan
The local sandwich scene has always been competitive, yet one of the fiercest rivalries isn’t even homegrown. Situated between Chicago and Philadelphia, Columbus is the ideal venue for a sandwich showdown. Though the thinly sliced regional favorites may seem similar to the uninitiated, the two-fisted contenders are decidedly different.
Authentic Italian beef has been a Chicago staple for more than a century, recently immortalized by the critically acclaimed television series The Bear. Seasoned beef is slow-roasted then served “hot” with spicy giardiniera or “sweet” with peppers on a crusty Turano roll. Order it “dry” without any jus, “wet” for more essence with each bite, or “dipped” back in the broth, bread and all, for a juicy delight.
The classic Philadelphia cheesesteak is as synonymous with the City of Brotherly Love as the Liberty Bell or Hall & Oates. Tender rib-eye piled high on a toasted Amoroso’s roll is obligatory. Provolone was the original cheese of choice, soon surpassed by the distinctive “whiz.” Grilled onions, peppers and mushrooms are also acceptable additions.
Ordering either ’wich incorrectly could cause more than just momentary humiliation. Bungle your request at Johnnie’s Beef in Elmwood Park and you’ll probably lose your street cred. Ask for one with Swiss at Pat’s King of Steaks in South Philly and it might cost you the White House.
Fortunately, Columbus sandwich shops are more forgiving and have their share of both signature standards. Here are eight innovative eateries offering faithful interpretations with a Central Ohio twist.
Italian Beef Sandwiches
Loops Renowned for a credible repertoire of Chicago street standards like Vienna beef dogs, Polish sausages, gyros and falafel, overlooking Loops’ Italian beef is your loss. Succulent and stacked on a chewy roll, get one with hot or sweet giardiniera. Can’t decide between wet or dry? Try it with jus on the side. Stop back for a spanakopita, a savory Greek pie of fresh spinach, feta and onion baked in flaky filo dough. 1629 Northwest Blvd., Fifth by Northwest
Tasty Dawg Famous for jumbo franks served with everything from hearty chili and pimento cheese to pulled pork and avocado mash, it’s easy to miss the undercard. But don’t sleep on this Downtown eatery’s Italian beef. A short walk from the Ohio Statehouse and Columbus Commons, it’s Downtown’s only destination for the Gold Coast’s native sandwich. Next time, try a Mac Bowl, a base of elbow pasta and melted cheese with an intriguing array of original toppings. 107 S. High St., Downtown
Prost Beer & Wine Café A suburban biergarten isn’t the most obvious place to find a legit Italian beef. But Prost, on the far side of Reynoldsburg, is an under-the-radar star. Among more than a dozen delectable sandwiches, the Chi-Town Beef earns high marks. Served solo or paired with any pint, the hot or mild giardiniera always hits the spot. Come back for the bruschetta bar featuring sharable flights of four charcuterie selections. 7354 E. Main St., Reynoldsburg
Windy City Eats The alter ego of Pam’s Popcorn offers more than the unlikely mix of cheese and caramel kernels. The hidden menu’s top billing belongs to the Italian beef, “baptized” by default and topped with peppers, or with the traditional medley of chopped, pickled veggies. You can even get one with Philly-style “cheez,” if culinary blasphemy is your brand. Bavarian soft pretzels and bratwursts with sauerkraut echo the shared German history of Chicago and Columbus. 955 E. Johnstown Road, Gahanna
Check out These Cheesesteaks
Wario’s Beef and Pork Central Ohio’s most celebrated hole in the wall started serving East Coast-inspired fare from an unassuming window near Nationwide Arena in 2020, and is expanding to bigger digs in Clintonville. Seeded semolina “sticks” (crafted by baker Matt Swint) are split and stuffed with shaved steak, grilled onions and house whiz. But you really want it Wario’s Way with added provolone and white American for a gooey hat trick. The sophisticated sandwich menu, hot or cold, deserves a return visit. 4219 N. High St., Clintonville (coming soon); 111 W. Nationwide Blvd., Arena District
Marlow’s Cheesesteaks Philadelphia roots run deep at this classic steak shop. Keep it simple with sautéed onions covered in melted cheddar or order it Marlow’s Way with provolone as well, plus mushrooms, hot peppers, mayo and spicy mustard. Chicken, salmon and even a veggie-only option round out the menu with a little booze as a bonus. A stint this past summer at Budd Dairy Food Hall helped boost Marlow’s fanbase beyond Gahanna’s Creekside. 93 N. High St., Gahanna
Hoagie City Just south of Old Hilliard, this no-frills deli slings a legendary Italian sub. However, its cheesesteak is the real hero. Available plain with your choice of cheese, “wit” onions and peppers is the way to go. The half sandwich is easily shareable, but the whole is impossible to eat alone. The shop’s patriotic paint job and scrapple (sold by the pound) complete the motif. Grab a zesty pickle from the barrel to-go. 3870 Main St., Hilliard
Philgeddaboutit The clever portmanteau of colloquial lingo is a fitting name for this outfit’s elevated bar fare. Stick with the straightforward original cheesesteak or punch it up with the Black Eye, topped with bourbon-caramelized onions, garlic mushrooms and creamy bleu cheese. Tabasco slaw on the side is just the right balance of heat and sweet. The low-key kitchen in Grove City’s Town Center Pub recently opened a second spot inside a Merion Village landmark dive bar. Hey Hey Bar & Grill, 361 E. Whittier St., Merion Village; Town Center Pub, 3998 Broadway, Grove City
This story is from the February 2024 issue of Columbus Monthly.
